Kashmir – The Paradise on Earth (Apr 2014)

The beautiful Kashmir valley looks like a paradise on earth. The valley is so beautiful that you will fall in love with it at the first sight itself. In fact, the charm and magnificence of Kashmir are beyond the scope of mere words.e first sight itself. In fact, the charm and magnificence of Kashmir are beyond the scope of mere words.

Kashmir Travelogue (Srinagar – Sonmarg – Gulmarg – Pahalgam- Srinngar)

Travel Period : 28^th April to 6^th May 2014

Kashmir occupies a special place in India, because of its geographic location, its scenic splendor, and its great contributions to the arts and culture of India. In the history of our Republic is written another chapter on the unique issue of Kashmir. Its strategic position adds one more dimension to the overall security of this sub-continent.

Geographically and climatically Kashmir is the child of the mighty Himalayas receiving in abundance the paternal grace in the form of captivating scenic beauty, lush green pastures and lofty glistening snow covered mountain peaks which capture the changing hues of the brilliant sun, in a hundred thousand ways, the ever gurgling rivers and rivulets and the great lakes of mythological fame. In her valleys grow the rarest of trees and herbs, including the most precious of all flowers - the Kesar (Saffron). In her forest are found the best pines and deodars. From her orchards come apples, apricots, pears, walnuts and cherries of different kinds. On her green meadows graze the lambs bearing the most exquisite wool fit to drape the Gods. Her Dal lake and her house boats, Gulmarg and her glaciers have made her an international tourist spot. What to talk of her temples, the dream of every devout Hindu - the Holy Amarnath where thousands and thousands trek to every year, regardless of inclement weather and a host of other dangers; the Shiva temple, the Kshir Bhawani, all with their lofty associations with great masterminds and the impeccable Shaivite philosophy. Surely the name of Kashmir should conjure up a thrill in all Indians.

Kashmir – is the valley to be lost in. What is this life is full of care and we have no time to stand or to stare. But if you are in Kashmir you simply cannot tell yourself to not to stand or to stare at the extravagant beauty of this place. The snow clad moutains can take you to the different world, the greenery smoothens your heart and the rivers and rivulets teach you to keep flowing. It’s marvelous.

Timing of visiting Kashmir matters the most and thanks to our wedding in April 2^nd week. We could select the best time to be there. End of April. Unfortunately we selected wrong tour operator (Heena) for our very special tour but one should learn from other’s mistake and never opt for it especially for honeymoon. If you are travelling in group or with small kids you ought to love Heena. For few simple reason… 1) Excellent and extravagant meals and food services and 2) security and contacts that they have as No 1 tour operator in Kashmir at its best.

Itinerary of tour to Kashmir…

Srinagar – 4 Nights (1 Night was taken extra as last day of tour)

Boarded 10.55 Indigo flight and when we were about to land for Srinagar, the last half hour view from the flight is mind boggling. For the beauty lover this is simply delight and feast for eyes. The snow clad mountains everywhere and the open blue sky with clouds had already cheered the mind for “Acche din”.  We landed by 2.00 PM. Srinagar airport is not very busy and hence claiming luggage is easy task. Heena managers picked us up for stay in House boat, on the way one crosses Jhelum river (is a river that flows in India and Pakistan. It is the largest and most western of the five rivers of Punjab, and passes through Jhelum District. It is a tributary of the Chenab River and has a total length of about 450 miles). Reached Dal Lake gate no 11 for pick up, its view is worth thousands of praises. Splendid as it can get. The immense beauty of Dal lake surrounded by humongous snow clad mountains is enough to say Shuruvaat behtarin rahi! It’s so incredibly beautiful! " If there is a heaven on earth, it is definitely here, here and only here "

Shikara photo (Stayed in this house boat for 2 Nights – 28^th April and 5^th May 2014)

What not to miss: Don’t forget to understand rates applicable for shikara. House boat with Shikara includes only pick up and drop charges. If you are planning trip on your own, this House boat also provides Meal options and they are worth a try. Jain food is available too.

House boats can be accessed only through Shikara, once you reach the desired gate suggested by HB owners that particular HB’s Shikara will be there to pick you up. House boat is a very beautiful experience but strictly for once. The entrance is made for comfortable sitting to enjoy the view of Himalayas and Dal lake. The lobby, dining and bed rooms are traditionally decorated with rich carpets, traditional curtains and and wooden furnish with Moghlai touch. New Dera house boat had beautiful garden and it was near Nehru park which is situated right in midst of Dal Lake. A shikara ride is sheer pleasure for the kind of serene feeling that it can ensure one with lot of calmness.

There is also one more lake named Nageen lake, which has house boats too. However Dal lake remains most popular and crowded. The HB’s in Kashmir are moored. The food provided by them is generally good enough. New Dera HB maid could also make for us Jain food very nicely.  Beware of the local Shikara vendors, only if you know prices well, go out on shopping spree. Dal lake has Floating market with more than 100 shops on house boats.

(View from flight J)

  

Day 2 (Beautiful Shikara ride followed by travel to Mughal gardens): 

After breakfast we enjoyed 2 hrs. of Shikara Ride & Transfered to Hotel named Shenshah palace. After lunch visited famous gardens of Srinagar which includes Shalimar Baug, Nishat Baug, Chinar baug and Tulip garden.

 

Mughal Gardens

The paradise on earth known as Srinagar is simply a treat for nature lovers. It is dotted with lakes, mountains and gardens. One of the most famous and visited destination in Srinagar is its Mughal Gardens. All these gardens are nothing short of architectural and landscaping marvels. All these beautiful gardens have been built by the emperors of the great Mughal dynasty. Cascading fountains, terraced lawns and marvelous flower beds are the prominent features of these gardens. One must visit during the spring season to enjoy the blooming flowers, the delight of sunlight on snow and well maintained beauty of India! These are certainly most romantic gardens I have seen.Here is a quick guide of the grand Mughal Gardens in the city of Srinagar:

Shalimar Bagh

Located on the banks of the serene Dal Lake, Shalimar Bagh is a true masterpiece. It is the biggest Mughal Garden in Kashmir and was built by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1619. The garden has four terraced lawns, rising one over the other. A number of fountains and man-made streams dot the landscape of the garden. The word Shalimar means Hall of Love in Sanskrit. It was built by Jahangir to please his wife, Nur Jahan and it still remains an epitome of romance and beauty. A very prominent feature of the garden is the arched recesses behind the fountains. These recesses used to be lit with lamps, giving the fountains a majestic, dreamy look.

Timings and Entry Fee: The garden is open all days except Fridays. The summer timings (April to October) are 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. The winter timings (November to March) are 10:30 am to 5:30 pm. The entry ticket price is INR 10 for

  Nishat Bagh

Another landscaping and architectural marvel, Nishat Bagh was built by Asif Khan, brother of EmperorJahangir's wife Nur Jahan in 1633. This splendid garden is also located on the banks of Dal Lake, with Zabarwan mountains as its backdrop. The word Nishat ( a Hindustani word) means garden of joy. Like Shalimar Bagh, Nishat is also lined with terraces and streams. Avenues of Chinar and Cypress trees dot the landscape of the garden. There are a total of twelve terraced lawns in the garden. The garden spreads across 6.20 hectares (15.3 acres) and is located at a distance of 11 km from the Tourist Reception Centre. Timings and Entry Fee: The garden is open on all days except Fridays. The timings are 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Cheshmashahi

Meaning Royal Spring, Cheshmashahi is one of the three Mughal Gardens in Srinagar. It was built by Mughal Governor Ali Mardan Khan for emperor Shah Jahan in 1632. The garden consists of a pavilion and three terraces. It is famous for the natural spring that flows from it. Its location, being at an elevated plane above the city, provides a panoramic view of the city.

Timings and Entry Fee:The garden remains open all days in a week from 8am till 8pm.

Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden

At the foothills of Zabarwan Mountains, near the banks of Dal Lake nestles the beautiful Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden. The long stretches of tulips, blooming charmingly are sure to give you the feel of walking in heaven. This is considered to be the biggest Tulip Garden in Asia.

This garden is around 8 km from Srinagar and is known for the Annual Tulip Festival that takes place here for a week. The huge amplitude of the gardens is known to have more than 70 varieties of tulip flowers and nourishes 1.3 million tulip bulbs.

It is situated in vicinity of Shalimar Garden, Nishat Garden, Chashm-e-Shahi Gardens and other Mughal Gardens.

Entry fees: INR 50 for Adults and INR 20 for Children

 

----- You are surely dead tired after visiting and walking these long patches of beautiful gardens. One can easily spend one whole day for these gardens.

 

Day 3:  Srinagar to Sonmarg ( 2 hours journey)

Literally meaning “Meadow of Gold”, Sonmarg is a treat to the eyes. Situated 87 km northeast of Srinagar, the capital of Jammu and Kashmir, Sonmarg is a popular base for adventure sports and is a trekker's heaven. Surrounded by snowy mountains, dense forests full of fir and pine, Sonmarg remains pleasant even during summers. It is believed Sonmarg got its name from the yellow crocus flowers which bloom in spring. In, Kashmiri language 'Son' means 'gold' and 'marg' means 'garden', hence jointly it means 'golden meadows'. Glaciers and placid lakes surround the snow covered flower-laden meadow. Sonamarg is the gateway to Ladakh and situated just before the Zojii La pass. The Sindhu River, the cradle of Indus Valley Civilization, flows through the hill town. Sonmarg, besides Laddakh is the only place in India where you can see the river. Sindhu River is also called the Indus River.

One can use car sledge run by the localites by paying Rs 600 per head and go uptil peak of mountain. One should surely enjoy tea, magii, skiing, photo shooting and snow man making sessions above at the peak here. It is best advised to keep yourself light with limited food to avoid digestion troubles. And do not forget to keep some Kapoor in handkerchief for people having breathing issues.  The way towards sonmarg from Srinagar by road is spell bounding experience. Do sleep well before the trip to not miss even a single shot of beauty from your eye.

As soon as we were in midst of snow clad glaciers and mountains, eyes couldn’t blink even for a second. The sheer beauty comforts one beyond a limit. It’s a treat for nature lovers. What more can you ask… a pen, a diary, a empty mind to adore this beauty and handful of warm clothes J

Just close your eyes and open it just to realize that it’s not dream but reality. Switzerland of the East… “Gar Bar-ru-e-Zamin Ast; Hamin Ast, Hamin Ast Hamin Ast.”

One would definitely return back with lot of fun thrilled experience of experiencing nature so close. Its so divine, pure and mesmerizing. However, for 2 nights were being placed in hotel named Shensha Palace,  an extremely average hotel. One can possibly avoid this. As per my personal experience, if you are going with big heart one should not miss staying in Taj or The Lalit palace. Afterall, you are at place full of serene beauty and you don’t want a bad memory so avoid any local hotels. Outlook of all the hotels look good but rooms are really poorly made with little hygiene. So be careful.

Day 4&5: Gulmarg (2 Hours journey from Srinagar)

GAURIMARG, named after Devi Parvati, wife of Lord Mahadev/Shiv, finds mention in Shivpuraan. Gauri= Parvati: Marg= Meadow. So literally it means the meadow of Devi Parvati. A temple dedicated to Lord Shiv is still in place at centre of this beautiful meadow. GAURIMARG was a favourite resort of the Hindu Kings of Kashmir. The original name Gaurimarg was changed to Gulmarg by the Muslim King Yousuf Shah Chak. GAURIMARG, has been a resort for the kings like Yousuf Shah Chak and Jahangir who used to visit frequently. GULMARG, means, the place of roses. During the early part of the 20th century the famous Central Asian explorer Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943), made his home here in a tent between his expeditions. It was a favourite summer holiday destination for the British stationed in India.

Gulmarg (translation: "Meadow of Flowers") is a town, a hill station, a popular skiing destination and a notified area committee in Baramula district. The town is within the Himalayas and is within miles of the Line of Control between India and Pakistan. One cannot close eyes to this place if you are around Kashmir. Its highly recommended, must visit. It is said that Mughals and then Britishers had developed this place for holidaying then. Its beauty is mesmerizing. The famous Shiv temple of ‘Satyam Shivam Sundaram’ movie is situated here in Gulmarg at heart of city centre. Also there are nearby vendors for buying good warm clothes. The Jain food is bliss here. There are many small restaurants which serve only veg meals and also know how to cook good Jain food. Enjoying Maggii and taking a beautiful walk along the snow was wonderful experience.

I am mad for snow! I couldn’t take my eyes off from the window of our room in Grand Mumtaz hotel at Gulmarg.

One day is good for visiting local sights and shopping spree, visiting temple. And next day taking Gondola car cable followed by enjoying the beauty. 

 

Gulmarg boasts Asia's highest and longest cable car project, the Gulmarg Gondola. The two-stage ropeway ferries about 600 people per hour to and from Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft). The ropeway project is a joint venture of the Jammu and Kashmir government and French firm Pomagalski. The first stage transfers from the Gulmarg resort at 2,600 m (8,530 ft) to Kongdoori Station in the bowl-shaped Kongdori valley. The second stage of the ropeway, which has 36 cabins and 18 towers, takes skiers to a height of 3,747 m (12,293 ft) on Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft)). The second stage was completed in a record time of about two years at a cost of 110,000,000 Indian Rupees (i.e. some US$2.3 million) and opened on May 28, 2005. The French company had also built the first phase of the gondola project, connecting Gulmarg to Kongdoori, in 1998.

The timing of the gondola is 10 AM (IST) to 5 PM (It's highly dependent upon the weather at both stages). A gondola can carry six people at a time. The price is  500 Indian Rupees  for the first stage and 800 Indian Rupees for the second stage. It takes approximately 9 minutes to reach the first stage and 12 minutes for second stage. Gulmarg Gondola in Gulmarg, Jammu and Kashmir is the world's second highest operating cable car since the closure in 2008 of the Mérida cable car in Venezuela.

This place holds special place in my heart. The best memories of this place include, reaching 14k ft above with snow around and looking at the world down, Lunch with J in chilly afternoon at window side of restaurant with droplets of snow around and whole surrounding with heavy lofty snow and also the Walk to remember…two hours walk to market and back. I lived my Exeter days back J Warm clothes, mufflers, monkey caps are must have’s during the trip here. 

Day 6&7: Pahalgam. (Gulmarg to Pahalgam about 5 hour’s journey)

Pahalgam is a town and a notified area committee in Anantnag district of the Indian state of Jammu & Kashmir. It is a popular tourist destination, and every year, many tourists visit Pahalgam.[1] This world famous hill station is 45 km. from the District Headquarters at Anantnag and located on the banks of Lidder River at an altitude of 7200 ft. from sea level. Pahalgam is one among the five tehsils of Anantnag district and tehsil headquarters are located in the main town of Pahalgam. It was once a tourist attraction and a favourite place for shooting of Bollywood films and is still a health resort. Besides tourist huts, several hotels in private sector have come up here and these hotels provide modern facilities to their guests. A number of treks in this region also begin from Pahalgam, as the 35 km trail traverses through pinewoods to the spectacular Kolahoi Glacier.

After enjoying Gulmarg and Sonmarg, Chandanwari (2,895 m), 16 km from Pahalgam which is the starting point of the yatra might not excite you much. The road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is on fairly flat terrain and can be undertaken by car. Betaab valley is on the way back from Chandanwari towards our hotel, Grand Mumtaz.

Betaab valley is certainly ‘MUST GO’ place. Valley lies between the two Himalayan Ranges – Pir Panjal and Zanskar. Betaab Valley – a part of the Kashmir region, was ruled by the Mughals since the 15th Century. In latter part of the 1400s the Turko-Mughal Military General Mirza Muhammad Haidar Dughlat ruled over Kashmir first on behalf of Sultan Said Khan of Kashgar and then on behalf of the Mughal Emperor Humayun.  Betab Valley is a very popular touristic destination. Betaab Valley is also a favorite campsite of travelers as it also serves as a base camp for trekking and further exploration of the mountains. The valley is a walk-able distance from Pahalgam. The crystal clear & chilly water of the stream bubbling down from the snowy hills is a delight; locals here drink this water too. Baisaran and Tulian Lake are few nearby attractions that can be visited.

Grand Mumtaz was decent hotel with fairly decent crowd and view. We enjoyed horse riding on first day itself in Pahalgam, which made our life absolutely hell. The destination where horses take you are breath taking however, its just too dangerous. We visited three points,  our 1st point was Kashmir Valley. The next was Dabian & the final point was Baisaran also known as Mini Switzerland (It truly was…Mini Swiss!)

We also had fun shooting ourselves near White water rafting. Unfortunately we couldn’t do it given the bad experience with horses and terribly paining ass: p

Our last day at Pahalgam was mood refreshing but very tiring. We were hit by sleepless nights and travelling exersions.

We headed for Srinagar on 5^th May, where we were to stay at House boat again. We wanted much needed rest today for all the tiring travel that we underwent. It was good break from huge groups since we were alone. We enjoyed Nehru garden, floating markets and Shikara yet again.

We woke up with dawn with fresh feel. Sat on Shikara watched over glaciers for hours and just spoke. Perfect finishing line for first destination we both wanted to visit. It was beautiful time spent with each other, for each other. We fought, we disagreed, we cared, we loved and we are back to Mumbai on 6^th May to bustling busy lives. 

It was such an pleasant experience to be in Kashmir! I would definitely come back

Key Tips for being in Kashmir

Food: Jain food is very very easily available even on top of the mountains in Sonmarg and Gulmarg you will find Jain food available.

Accommodation: Given an personal preference I would have stayed in Leela Palace or Taj in Srinagar and Khyber in Gulmarg. for budgeted hotels there are lot of options as well but do check before booking if they have 1 full double bed. Most of them have concept of two single beds attached as double bed.

Traveling: You can hire a car there and go around places, people are very sweet and trustworthy.

Souvenirs: Must, must pick kasmiri shawls and bedsheets and not to forget little shikaras! :)