The beautiful Kashmir valley looks like a paradise on earth. The valley is so beautiful that you will fall in love with it at the first sight itself. In fact, the charm and magnificence of Kashmir are beyond the scope of mere words.e first sight itself. In fact, the charm and magnificence of Kashmir are beyond the scope of mere words.
Kashmir Travelogue
(Srinagar – Sonmarg – Gulmarg – Pahalgam- Srinngar)
Travel Period : 28th
April to 6th May 2014
Kashmir occupies a special place in India, because of its
geographic location, its scenic splendor, and its great contributions to the
arts and culture of India. In the history of our Republic is written another
chapter on the unique issue of Kashmir. Its strategic position adds one more
dimension to the overall security of this sub-continent.
Geographically and climatically Kashmir is the child of the mighty Himalayas receiving in abundance
the paternal grace in the form of captivating
scenic beauty, lush green pastures and lofty glistening snow covered mountain
peaks which capture the changing hues of the brilliant sun, in a hundred
thousand ways, the ever gurgling rivers and rivulets and the great lakes of
mythological fame. In her valleys grow the rarest of trees and herbs, including
the most precious of all flowers - the Kesar (Saffron). In her forest are found
the best pines and deodars. From her orchards come apples, apricots, pears,
walnuts and cherries of different kinds. On her green meadows graze the lambs
bearing the most exquisite wool fit to drape the Gods. Her Dal lake and her
house boats, Gulmarg and her glaciers have made her an international tourist
spot. What to talk of her temples, the dream of every devout Hindu - the Holy
Amarnath where thousands and thousands trek to every year, regardless of
inclement weather and a host of other dangers; the Shiva temple, the Kshir
Bhawani, all with their lofty associations with great masterminds and the
impeccable Shaivite philosophy. Surely the name of Kashmir should conjure up a
thrill in all Indians.
Kashmir – is the valley to be lost in. What is this life is full
of care and we have no time to stand or to stare. But if you are in Kashmir you
simply cannot tell yourself to not to stand or to stare at the extravagant
beauty of this place. The snow clad moutains can take you to the different world,
the greenery smoothens your heart and the rivers and rivulets teach you to keep
flowing. It’s marvelous.
Timing of visiting Kashmir matters the most and thanks to our
wedding in April 2nd week. We could select the best time to be
there. End of April. Unfortunately we selected wrong tour operator (Heena) for
our very special tour but one should learn from other’s mistake and never opt
for it especially for honeymoon. If you are travelling in group or with small
kids you ought to love Heena. For few simple reason… 1) Excellent and
extravagant meals and food services and 2) security and contacts that they have
as No 1 tour operator in Kashmir at its best.
Itinerary of tour to
Kashmir…
Srinagar – 4 Nights (1 Night was taken extra as last day of tour)
Boarded 10.55 Indigo flight and when we were about to land for
Srinagar, the last half hour view from the flight is mind boggling. For the
beauty lover this is simply delight and feast for eyes. The snow clad mountains
everywhere and the open blue sky with clouds had already cheered the mind for
“Acche din”. We landed by 2.00 PM.
Srinagar airport is not very busy and hence claiming luggage is easy task.
Heena managers picked us up for stay in House boat, on the way one crosses
Jhelum river (is a river that flows in India and Pakistan. It is the largest and most
western of the five rivers of Punjab, and passes through Jhelum District. It is
a tributary of the Chenab River and has a total length of about 450 miles). Reached Dal Lake gate no 11 for pick up, its view is worth
thousands of praises. Splendid as it can get. The immense beauty of Dal lake
surrounded by humongous snow clad mountains is enough to say Shuruvaat behtarin
rahi! It’s so incredibly beautiful! " If there is a
heaven on earth, it is definitely here, here and only here "
Shikara photo (Stayed in this house boat for 2 Nights – 28th
April and 5th May 2014)
What not to miss: Don’t forget to understand rates applicable for shikara. House
boat with Shikara includes only pick up and drop charges. If you are planning
trip on your own, this House boat also provides Meal options and they are worth
a try. Jain food is available too.
House boats can be accessed only through Shikara, once you reach
the desired gate suggested by HB owners that particular HB’s Shikara will be
there to pick you up. House boat is a very beautiful experience but strictly
for once. The entrance is made for comfortable sitting to enjoy the view of Himalayas
and Dal lake. The lobby, dining and bed rooms are traditionally decorated with
rich carpets, traditional curtains and and wooden furnish with Moghlai touch.
New Dera house boat had beautiful garden and it was near Nehru park which is
situated right in midst of Dal Lake. A shikara ride is sheer pleasure for the
kind of serene feeling that it can ensure one with lot of calmness.
There is also one more lake named Nageen lake, which has house
boats too. However Dal lake remains most popular and crowded. The HB’s in
Kashmir are moored. The food provided by them is generally good enough. New
Dera HB maid could also make for us Jain food very nicely. Beware of the local Shikara vendors, only if
you know prices well, go out on shopping spree. Dal lake has Floating market
with more than 100 shops on house boats.
(View from flight J)
Day 2 (Beautiful Shikara ride followed by travel to Mughal
gardens):
After breakfast we enjoyed 2 hrs. of Shikara Ride & Transfered
to Hotel named Shenshah palace. After lunch visited famous gardens of Srinagar
which includes Shalimar Baug, Nishat Baug, Chinar baug and Tulip garden.
Mughal Gardens
The paradise on earth known as Srinagar is simply a treat for nature
lovers. It is dotted with lakes, mountains and gardens. One of the most famous
and visited destination in Srinagar is its Mughal Gardens. All these gardens
are nothing short of architectural and landscaping marvels. All these beautiful
gardens have been built by the emperors of the great Mughal dynasty. Cascading
fountains, terraced lawns and marvelous flower beds are the prominent features
of these gardens. One must visit during the spring season to enjoy the blooming
flowers, the delight of sunlight on snow and well maintained beauty of India! These
are certainly most romantic gardens I have seen.Here is a quick guide of the
grand Mughal Gardens in the city of Srinagar:
Shalimar Bagh
Located on the banks of the serene Dal Lake, Shalimar Bagh is a true
masterpiece. It is the biggest Mughal Garden in Kashmir and was built by Mughal
Emperor Jahangir in 1619. The garden has four terraced lawns, rising one over
the other. A number of fountains and man-made streams dot the landscape of the
garden. The word Shalimar means Hall of Love in Sanskrit. It was built by
Jahangir to please his wife, Nur Jahan and it still remains an epitome of
romance and beauty. A very prominent feature of the garden is the arched
recesses behind the fountains. These recesses used to be lit with lamps, giving
the fountains a majestic, dreamy look.
Timings and Entry Fee: The garden is open all days except Fridays.
The summer timings (April to October) are 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. The winter
timings (November to March) are 10:30 am to 5:30 pm. The entry ticket price is
INR 10 for
Nishat Bagh
Another landscaping and architectural marvel, Nishat Bagh was
built by Asif Khan, brother of EmperorJahangir's wife Nur Jahan in 1633. This
splendid garden is also located on the banks of Dal Lake, with Zabarwan
mountains as its backdrop. The word Nishat ( a Hindustani word) means garden of
joy. Like Shalimar Bagh, Nishat is also lined with terraces and streams.
Avenues of Chinar and Cypress trees dot the landscape of the garden. There are
a total of twelve terraced lawns in the garden. The garden spreads across 6.20
hectares (15.3 acres) and is located at a distance of 11 km from the Tourist
Reception Centre. Timings and Entry Fee: The garden is open on all days except
Fridays. The timings are 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.
Cheshmashahi
Meaning Royal Spring, Cheshmashahi is one of the three Mughal
Gardens in Srinagar. It was built by Mughal Governor Ali Mardan Khan for
emperor Shah Jahan in 1632. The garden consists of a pavilion and three
terraces. It is famous for the natural spring that flows from it. Its location,
being at an elevated plane above the city, provides a panoramic view of the
city.
Timings and Entry Fee:The garden remains open all days in a week
from 8am till 8pm.
Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden
At the foothills of Zabarwan Mountains, near the banks of Dal Lake
nestles the beautiful Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden. The long stretches of tulips,
blooming charmingly are sure to give you the feel of walking in heaven. This is
considered to be the biggest Tulip Garden in Asia.
This garden is around 8 km from Srinagar and is known for the
Annual Tulip Festival that takes place here for a week. The huge amplitude of the
gardens is known to have more than 70 varieties of tulip flowers and nourishes
1.3 million tulip bulbs.
It is situated in vicinity of Shalimar Garden, Nishat Garden,
Chashm-e-Shahi Gardens and other Mughal Gardens.
Entry fees: INR 50 for Adults and INR 20 for Children
----- You are surely dead tired after visiting and walking these
long patches of beautiful gardens. One can easily spend one whole day for these
gardens.
Day 3: Srinagar to Sonmarg ( 2 hours journey)
Literally meaning “Meadow of Gold”, Sonmarg is a treat to the
eyes. Situated 87 km northeast of Srinagar, the capital of Jammu and Kashmir,
Sonmarg is a popular base for adventure sports and is a trekker's heaven.
Surrounded by snowy mountains, dense forests full of fir and pine, Sonmarg
remains pleasant even during summers. It is believed Sonmarg got its name from
the yellow crocus flowers which bloom in spring. In, Kashmiri language 'Son'
means 'gold' and 'marg' means 'garden', hence jointly it means 'golden
meadows'. Glaciers and placid lakes surround the snow covered flower-laden
meadow. Sonamarg is the gateway to Ladakh and situated just before the Zojii La
pass. The Sindhu River, the cradle of Indus Valley Civilization, flows through
the hill town. Sonmarg, besides Laddakh is the only place in India where you
can see the river. Sindhu River is also called the Indus River.
One can use car sledge run by the localites by paying Rs 600 per
head and go uptil peak of mountain. One should surely enjoy tea, magii, skiing,
photo shooting and snow man making sessions above at the peak here. It is best
advised to keep yourself light with limited food to avoid digestion troubles. And
do not forget to keep some Kapoor in handkerchief for people having breathing
issues. The way towards sonmarg from
Srinagar by road is spell bounding experience. Do sleep well before the trip to
not miss even a single shot of beauty from your eye.
As soon as we were in midst of snow clad glaciers and mountains,
eyes couldn’t blink even for a second. The sheer beauty comforts one beyond a
limit. It’s a treat for nature lovers. What more can you ask… a pen, a diary, a
empty mind to adore this beauty and handful of warm clothes J
Just close your eyes and open it just to realize that it’s not
dream but reality. Switzerland of the East… “Gar Bar-ru-e-Zamin Ast; Hamin Ast,
Hamin Ast Hamin Ast.”
One would definitely return back with lot of fun thrilled
experience of experiencing nature so close. Its so divine, pure and
mesmerizing. However, for 2 nights were being placed in hotel named Shensha
Palace, an extremely average hotel. One
can possibly avoid this. As per my personal experience, if you are going with
big heart one should not miss staying in Taj or The Lalit palace. Afterall, you
are at place full of serene beauty and you don’t want a bad memory so avoid any
local hotels. Outlook of all the hotels look good but rooms are really poorly
made with little hygiene. So be careful.
Day 4&5: Gulmarg (2 Hours journey from Srinagar)
GAURIMARG, named after Devi Parvati, wife of Lord Mahadev/Shiv,
finds mention in Shivpuraan. Gauri= Parvati: Marg= Meadow. So literally it
means the meadow of Devi Parvati. A temple dedicated to Lord Shiv is still in
place at centre of this beautiful meadow. GAURIMARG was a favourite resort of
the Hindu Kings of Kashmir. The original name Gaurimarg was changed to Gulmarg
by the Muslim King Yousuf Shah Chak. GAURIMARG, has been a resort for the kings
like Yousuf Shah Chak and Jahangir who used to visit frequently. GULMARG,
means, the place of roses. During the early part of the 20th century the famous
Central Asian explorer Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943), made his home here in
a tent between his expeditions. It was a favourite summer holiday destination
for the British stationed in India.
Gulmarg (translation: "Meadow of Flowers") is a town, a
hill station, a popular skiing destination and a notified area committee in
Baramula district. The town is within the Himalayas and is within miles of the
Line of Control between India and Pakistan. One cannot close eyes to this place
if you are around Kashmir. Its highly recommended, must visit. It is said that
Mughals and then Britishers had developed this place for holidaying then. Its
beauty is mesmerizing. The famous Shiv temple of ‘Satyam Shivam Sundaram’ movie
is situated here in Gulmarg at heart of city centre. Also there are nearby
vendors for buying good warm clothes. The Jain food is bliss here. There are
many small restaurants which serve only veg meals and also know how to cook
good Jain food. Enjoying Maggii and taking a beautiful walk along the snow was
wonderful experience.
I am mad for snow! I couldn’t take my eyes off from the window of
our room in Grand Mumtaz hotel at Gulmarg.
One day is good for visiting local sights and shopping spree,
visiting temple. And next day taking Gondola car cable followed by enjoying the
beauty.
Gulmarg boasts Asia's highest and longest cable car project, the
Gulmarg Gondola. The two-stage ropeway ferries about 600 people per hour to and
from Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft).
The ropeway project is a joint venture of the Jammu and Kashmir government and
French firm Pomagalski. The first stage transfers from the Gulmarg resort at
2,600 m (8,530 ft) to Kongdoori Station in the bowl-shaped Kongdori valley. The
second stage of the ropeway, which has 36 cabins and 18 towers, takes skiers to
a height of 3,747 m (12,293 ft) on Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby
Afarwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft)). The second stage was completed in a record
time of about two years at a cost of 110,000,000 Indian Rupees (i.e. some US$2.3
million) and opened on May 28, 2005. The French company had also built the
first phase of the gondola project, connecting Gulmarg to Kongdoori, in 1998.
The timing of the gondola is 10 AM (IST) to 5 PM (It's highly
dependent upon the weather at both stages). A gondola can carry six people at a
time. The price is 500 Indian
Rupees for the first stage and 800
Indian Rupees for the second stage. It takes approximately 9 minutes to reach
the first stage and 12 minutes for second stage. Gulmarg Gondola in Gulmarg,
Jammu and Kashmir is the world's second highest operating cable car since the
closure in 2008 of the Mérida cable car in Venezuela.
This place holds special place in my heart. The best memories of
this place include, reaching 14k ft above with snow around and looking at the
world down, Lunch with J in chilly afternoon at window side of restaurant with
droplets of snow around and whole surrounding with heavy lofty snow and also
the Walk to remember…two hours walk to market and back. I lived my Exeter days
back J Warm clothes, mufflers, monkey caps are must have’s during the
trip here.
Day
6&7: Pahalgam. (Gulmarg to Pahalgam about 5 hour’s journey)
Pahalgam is a town and a notified area committee in Anantnag
district of the Indian state of Jammu & Kashmir. It is a popular tourist
destination, and every year, many tourists visit Pahalgam.[1] This world famous
hill station is 45 km. from the District Headquarters at Anantnag and located
on the banks of Lidder River at an altitude of 7200 ft. from sea level.
Pahalgam is one among the five tehsils of Anantnag district and tehsil
headquarters are located in the main town of Pahalgam. It was once a tourist
attraction and a favourite place for shooting of Bollywood films and is still a
health resort. Besides tourist huts, several hotels in private sector have come
up here and these hotels provide modern facilities to their guests. A number of
treks in this region also begin from Pahalgam, as the 35 km trail traverses through
pinewoods to the spectacular Kolahoi Glacier.
After enjoying Gulmarg and Sonmarg, Chandanwari (2,895 m), 16 km
from Pahalgam which is the starting point of the yatra might not excite you
much. The road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is on fairly flat terrain and can
be undertaken by car. Betaab valley is on the way back from Chandanwari towards
our hotel, Grand Mumtaz.
Betaab valley is certainly ‘MUST GO’ place. Valley lies between
the two Himalayan Ranges – Pir Panjal and Zanskar. Betaab Valley – a part of
the Kashmir region, was ruled by the Mughals since the 15th Century. In latter
part of the 1400s the Turko-Mughal Military General Mirza Muhammad Haidar
Dughlat ruled over Kashmir first on behalf of Sultan Said Khan of Kashgar and
then on behalf of the Mughal Emperor Humayun.
Betab Valley is a very popular touristic destination. Betaab Valley is
also a favorite campsite of travelers as it also serves as a base camp for
trekking and further exploration of the mountains. The valley is a walk-able
distance from Pahalgam. The crystal clear & chilly water of the stream
bubbling down from the snowy hills is a delight; locals here drink this water
too. Baisaran and Tulian Lake are few nearby attractions that can be visited.
Grand Mumtaz was decent hotel with fairly decent crowd and view.
We enjoyed horse riding on first day itself in Pahalgam, which made our life
absolutely hell. The destination where horses take you are breath taking
however, its just too dangerous. We visited three points, our 1st
point was Kashmir Valley. The next was Dabian & the final point was
Baisaran also known as Mini Switzerland (It truly was…Mini Swiss!)
We also had fun shooting ourselves near White water
rafting. Unfortunately we couldn’t do it given the bad experience with horses
and terribly paining ass: p
Our last day at Pahalgam was mood refreshing but very
tiring. We were hit by sleepless nights and travelling exersions.
We headed for Srinagar on 5th May, where we
were to stay at House boat again. We wanted much needed rest today for all the
tiring travel that we underwent. It was good break from huge groups since we
were alone. We enjoyed Nehru garden, floating markets and Shikara yet again.
We woke up with dawn with fresh feel. Sat on Shikara
watched over glaciers for hours and just spoke. Perfect finishing line for
first destination we both wanted to visit. It was beautiful time spent with
each other, for each other. We fought, we disagreed, we cared, we loved and we
are back to Mumbai on 6th May to bustling busy lives.
Key Tips for being in Kashmir
Food: Jain food is very very easily available even on top of the mountains in Sonmarg and Gulmarg you will find Jain food available.
Accommodation: Given an personal preference I would have stayed in Leela Palace or Taj in Srinagar and Khyber in Gulmarg. for budgeted hotels there are lot of options as well but do check before booking if they have 1 full double bed. Most of them have concept of two single beds attached as double bed.
Traveling: You can hire a car there and go around places, people are very sweet and trustworthy.
Souvenirs: Must, must pick kasmiri shawls and bedsheets and not to forget little shikaras! :)
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